Knowledge of my life-long affinity for homemade macaroni and cheese has spread across the Internet to the rural community of 500 in Goessel, Kansas where Terah Yoder Goerzen lives. In April, she wrote, “I came to read your blog through an odd open-source software and Mennonite connection that could only happen online.” It makes sense to me – Hershberger is, after all, a very popular Amish/Mennonite last name.
She identified with my early training in the kitchen. “I was in fourth-grade when my mom went to work full time, leaving me with daily instructions for how to get supper going. That really is a great way to learn your way around a kitchen!” she wrote.
It was my favorite dish which caught Goerzen’s eye.
“Just yesterday I was searching through recipe books for a good baked macaroni and cheese recipe. The ones I found basically said to make a white sauce, add some cheese and bake. I want something with more pizzaz (aka fattening flavor) – like a great-aunt would bring to a potluck. Your story made me wonder if you might have such a recipe. If you do, would you mind sharing?” she wrote.
Her letter stumped me. One of my sons loves macaroni and cheese. His wife has asked me to give her the recipe. Since I don’t have one, I’ve tried to tell her. I just sort of know how to make it. That evening, I made the dish and tried to capture the recipe on paper and e-mailed Goerzen as follows.
I am really going to have to get my recipe figured out more precisely. Basically, it is about a pound of elbow macaroni – if you want, add a bit of onion for extra flavor – to the boiling water. While it boils, I grate a block of sharp cheese – one to two pounds – this really depends on how much I am making. I like LOTS of cheese. I put it in a greased bowl with a couple eggs, salt, pepper and maybe a squeeze or two of mustard.
Stir all the macaroni up with the cheese, eggs and seasonings and add enough milk to fill up the dish and bake at 375 degrees.
Of late, I have hurried things along by using the microwave, but then I stir it every 5-10 minutes to heat it through. This makes a very creamy textured dish. I like it baked in the oven because then it becomes a molded half-sphere with a browned edge.
I have varied it by adding broccoli bits, hot dogs or bits of ham. I tried peas – I didn’t like it.
The type of cheese makes a difference. My mother made it when my sister’s family visited. Her husband raved about my mother’s mac and cheese – which miffed my sister because she always followed Mom’s recipe. But, that time Mom had used a milder cheese. I’ve used odds and ends all sorts of flavors of block cheese, including jalepeno cheese (nice and spicy!)
Once, I went to a fancy restaurant with my sister. We ordered a tantalizing sounding entree using an exotic white cheese. We took a bite and laughed – it was mom’s macaroni and cheese – using spaghetti.
As children, we took left-over macaroni and cheese, sliced and fried it in lots of butter for breakfast. Okay, it exceeded the fat calorie limits – but it was crunchy delicious.
In Kansas, Terah received my e-mail and tried her hand at using my loose guidelines for macaroni and cheese – including recognizing the flexibility of the dish.
“Your recipe was even a hit with my husband who claims that he doesn’t like macaroni and cheese,” she wrote, “I told him it was a ‘cheese casserole.’ I had a half cup of cottage cheese waiting to expire in the fridge, so I added that too.”
“I love the thought of fried macaroni for breakfast! Definitely something from the days when fat, calories, and cholesterol didn’t matter at all! Thanks, again!”
No problem, Terah. I aim to please – and good food is the shortest route to anyone’s heart.
joanh@everybody.org